Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Monson, Maine was the last town before Katahdin. We spent nearly 3 days in town, resting up,shaking down packs,and re-supplying in preparation for the hundred mile wilderness. As I type I sit less than 100 miles from the summit of Katahdin. We are 10.4 miles into the 100 mile. We got out of town around 2, and pulled into camp around 7 it was a rough 10 miles. The trail was made up of mostly slate slabs or tree roots and mud, both of which are deadly slick in this crap weather. We also had 3 streams to ford today, one of which we did at night. Turns out Bella is an awesome swimmer once she's in the water.( It took some coaxing). The last of the 3 was the most difficult, it was swift moving, about knee deep, and it was dark. Luckily there was a nice guide rope strung between 2 trees to show the best route. After the final ford it was a steep .7 up to Little Wilson lean-to. Full house in here tonight, I hate it. No room. My pack is pushing 55 lbs with all my extra food, plus Bella's extra supply, it makes the miles that much more difficult. Its hard to believe we're so close, yet so far away. The North Country is so beautiful, I wish you were all here to experience it with me. That's all for tonight.

If anyone has any specific questions about the trip, please email me and I'll do my best to answer them in posts.

-Fresh and Bella the aquatic mountain dog
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Sunday, September 26, 2010

After the 15 out of Stratton we awoke to rain. No fun. Despite the weather we pushed 17 miles to the Pierce Pond Lean-to. The hike was not fun, but we kept our spirits high none the less. The lean to at Pierce Pond sits right on the banks of one of Maine's most pristine bodies of water. Stocked with land locked salmon and home to some huge trout. A traditional Maine sportsman's camp also sits on the banks of the pond,and from the lean-to it was a .4 mile hike to the camp in the morning for its famous hiker breakfast! 12 pancakes, sausage,eggs,coffee, and juice! It was amazing! I had no problem cleaning my plate. The camp was similar to the hut system in the Whites, but far more rustic and laid back. Tim,the owner, has been operating solo for the past 20 years. Breakfast was just the start of an amazing day. 3 miles past the lean-to on the AT is the Kennebeck river, home to the only ferry crossing on the trail. Dave, the ferry man, is out from August thru October, 4 hours a day ferrying hikers across the Kennebec 2 at a time in his Canoe. It was pretty cool. The trail leading to the river, skirted the banks of Pierce stream with several log bridges and waterfalls. The last of the log bridges was really sketchy, and just as Bella reached the far bank she slipped and fell off the bridge 6 feet to the creek below. She was soaked, but for her first trail folley, and experience with deep water, she came through with flying colors, soaked to the bone, but still bright eyed and bushy tailed. Once across the Kennebec we were in the town of Caratunk,Maine, population 45! We stayed in Caratunk at Northern Outdoor Resort. A rafting camp home to a brewery and 30 person hot tub attached to the lodge/bar. The place was packed with tourists and I hadn't seen so many good looking women in a LONG time. We soaked it up with some PBRs and a nice campfire. Instead of cabins, they had cabin tents for really cheap, so that was the route we took. Overall it was a fun off trail experience. As I write this, we are in Monson, Maine the last town before Katahdin. I'm 114.5 miles from the northern terminus! After my final resupply tomorrow, we start into the 100 mile wilderness! It seems like just yesterday I was getting off the train in Harpers Ferry, now I'm only a week away from finishing the 1st half of my quest. Katahdin isn't the end for me but I imagine it will still be an emotional time. This trip is far from over, and still I have more stories than I can type, 800 pictures, and memories that will stay with me for the rest of my life. The trail provides.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog
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Friday, September 24, 2010

(Written 9/23) We spent last night in Stratton,Maine in a cheap hotel room,eating town food, taking showers,watching tv, and enjoying a few cold ones. Your typical town stay. We pushed 15 big miles out of Stratton today, first double digit miles since The Franconia Ridge in the Whites, way back in New Hampshire. It felt really good. We traversed the entire Bigelowe Range today, The Horn,West Peak, Avery Peak, and the ridge walk of Little Bigelowe, the last major mountains before we reach Katahdin. After several attempts, today I got to feed 2 Grey Jays right out of my hand! They are the Canadian cousin to our blue jays, but they are a muted grey and white color. They would fly in, grab a small morsel of food from my hand, fly to a tree to hide it, then return for another piece til the food was gone. It was quite an interesting experience,and I was able to get a picture of the whole thing. We are 174 miles from Katahdin! I got a message from Birch today, his family will be driving up to pick him up on the 9th and they offered me a ride back to Harpers Ferry all the way from Katahdin ! This will save someone a ton of money because honestly I am unsure if I could afford a train ticket back at this point and still be able to flip. So it seems I will be summiting on or around the 9th and then making my flip a day or 2 later. Talk about trail magic! He should catch up to Dutch and I within the next 2 to 3 days. Tomorrow we plan to do big miles now that we are out of serious mountains. 17 miles will put us at Pierce Pond Lean to,which is near a Maine camp famous among hikers for its 12 pancake lumberjack breakfast for 8 bucks, I don't think I have the cash to spare but we shall see. Either way that's where we'll be tomorrow. I'm already in my bag and I'm having trouble keeping my eyes open. I'm beat from today, we got here to the Little Bigelowe lean to,started a fire for cooking (I've been doing a lot of fire cooking lately to save my fuel),cooked a nice cous cous meal,took a leak, and now I'm going to sleep.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog
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Wednesday, September 22, 2010

(Written 9/21) I saw a bull moose today!! It was awesome. I've been past due for a sighting and after counting 47 piles of moose scat today, my time finally came. It was a few yards off trail by the time I saw him but he was huge, couldn't get my camera out in time, but I'm sure that wasn't my last encounter. nothing truly interesting today,other than a ford of the Oberon creek. More gorgeous mountains, and one descent climb, with no view. Tomorrow,we hit Stratton, and depending on the weather we will either begin the Bigelowe Range or duck off in town for the night. We are under 200 miles to Maine, and once thru the Bigelowes the terrain flattens out onto Katahdin. The cold mornings are making it harder and harder to get going in the mornings, got started around noon today, and only put in 8.9. Once the terrain levels out miles should start coming easier. I'm tired and the sleeping bag is calling my name.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog
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Monday, September 20, 2010

Maine is the hardest and most rewarding state on the trail. Miles are slower,climbs more strenuous, and views that photographs will not give justice. After leaving the High 5 we hiked into Rangeley, Maine to recharge and resupply. Its cold enough now to carry good cheese and butter! Also bought so Butoni tortellini which made for an amazing dinner last night. We caught a late lunch of pizza and beer at the Red Onion Cafe in Rangeley, grabbed a bottle of Wild Turkey for good measure, and proceeded to hitch back out to the trail. We spent last night in a firey haze at the Piazza Rock shelter. A full supply of cut firewood, provided by the caretaker,kept our party of sorts going late into the evening( around 10 lol) This morning ,after oatmeal and hot apple cider, also purchased in town, we hit trail. A few tenths past the shelter was a blue blaze (side trail) to some amazing boulder caves. We spent the better part of 2 hours climbing in and around all the caves and notches. Took some great pictures. The weather today was gorgeous minus the wind. Our hike today took us across the Sadleback Range spending the better part of the day above the tree line and in the alpine zone. The colors of fall have splashed all over the trees here, mostly yellows right now but patches of reds are visible as well. Its only a matter of time before we are immersed in peak color. Tomorrow we start over into Stratton, and the Bigelowe Range, more amazing above treeline mountains. We're about 4 days from Monson, where I will be gearing up for the 100 mile wilderness, and the final push to Katahdin. Bella is doing wonderful, she sleeps wrapped up in an emergency blanket, right at my head, its a funny sight. We're at Poplar Ridge shelter tonight, hunkering down for the hard frost that is supposed to come thru tonight. First frost of the trip, bring it on! Tonights meal was amazing by the way. Pasta with sausage and cheese in a parma roja sauce mix, also purchased in town, it was a good resupply for sure. The fire is being stoked and I am being beckoned. Stay warm tonight everyone, I'll do my best to.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog + Dutch
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Friday, September 17, 2010

A zero day was just what Bella needed. She has made a huge improvement, back to her old self. We're getting back on trail tomorrow,hitting high gear and putting down big miles to Katahdin. The High 5 hostel has been amazing! Laura is an absolute angel! I helped her out whenever she has needed, and she has taken care of me on the side. We had moose tacos for dinner tonight. First time eating moose and it was really good. Laura is a chef and has a serious chefs kitchen! My brother would be jealous. The meal was top notch, I'm full as a tick. It has been an over all good day. The forecast is looking good for the next week or so, hopefully it will prove true.
OH YEAH ! I had a bacon double cheese burger for lunch from the general store in town. It was the first burger I've had in 3 months. Bomb dot com!

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog
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Thursday, September 16, 2010

I am alive. Its been another few days since I've updated, I'll do my best to fill in all that I can. I last updated from Mizpah Hut in the Whites. I'm well past there now lol. Pushed from Mizpah to Lake of the Clouds. The weather was awful. Low 20s on the summits and ridge line which we walked most of the day. The wind gusted to 55+ mph with rain and visibility around 100ft. It was not a fun day for myself or Bella. We held up pretty well at Lakes, which was positioned in the shadow of Mt. Washington, on the banks of 2 small alpine lakes with water temps around 48 degrees. we awoke the next morning to clear skies and sunshine, no better conditions for summiting George. After the croo served breakfast we packed up and made our ascent. The climb was amazing, the summit much less so, almost a let down. We reached the summit to find it covered with day hikers, a snack bar, post office, gift shop and auto road! For being such a huge climb and strenuous ridge walk, What a let down! had to wait in line behind 15 people to get my picture taken with the summit sign, it was the only picture I took from the summit. After George, we blew thru the Northern Ridge of the Presidentials and into Gorham, New Hampshire where I spent almost 3 days recovering in a hotel room with hot showers and beer for all. Out of Gorham start the toughest and most technical 30 miles of the trail. Crossing into Maine, and we have had rain for 3 of 4 days. Bella is sick with a respiratory infection, we hit the vet today and got her some meds she should be fine, all that alpine terrain took its tole, and the past 4 days have been just as bad below the trees. We made it thru the Mahousic Notch, which is the hardest mile of the entire trail, in just an hour and a half. Bella really earned her name coming thru all the caves and boulder scrambles. My shoes and gear have been wet for 3 days, we are at the High 5 hostel in Andover, Maine drying out and recuperating from the hardest hiking of my life. I've been carrying the "round tuit" for this place since I stared, and it was well worth it, the "hostel" is a converted shipping container lol, pictures will be available as soon as I get home. We stayed at Speck Pond shelter last night, sitting on the banks of the highest body of water in Maine, it was really serene. Its under 230 miles to Katahdin, and I still feel great, a little worse for wear, but I'm ok. I took a hard hit in my personal life tonight, almost took all the wind out of my sails but I won't let it, I did it to myself. I miss friends and family more than ever tonight, and all the comments from everyone, really boost my morale. Thanks to everyone for all their support, I'm more than half way done, and I'm ready to start walking towards home. I'm unsure what the future holds when I get there, but I know I'm coming home to friends and family that will see me through. The Blue Ridge plan is still a go for the long term future, I only wanna be in Georgia long enough to catch up with friends and family, then I will leave that place and a certain someone in the dust, not slowing down, not turning around,and no glancing to the rear-view mirror. I'm almost there everyone! God willing we will summit Katahdin by October 1st, and since I only have to get to Bly Gap, I should be home by Thanksgiving if not earlier. Bella sends her regards to everyone. Shower time after 1 last beer. By the way, I've taken over 400 pictures since New York. Live vicariously thru me.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog + Dutch


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Thursday, September 9, 2010

Our intent was to do big miles today and get up Mt. Washington, the weather had other ideas for us. Cold,rainy,windy all factors that make for a slow short day. We were on trail by 10, and the weather was already turning to crap, we pushed 5.7 miles on exposed ridge line slipping and sliding our way to Mizpah Springs Hut. The hut here is nice, dinner was hot and we have a dry warm place to rest our heads before,hopefully summiting Washington. If the weather is still crap tomorrow, it is 7.3 miles from here to Lake of the Clouds hut, which would raise our hut stay to 4 out of the 8 alpine huts here in the Whites. We took a zero day yesterday in Bartlet,NH to recoop and just basically have a day off, spent the day in Leslie and Tiffany's(trail angles) shed watching movies,sleeping, and drinking beer, very productive day... It was much needed. I haven't updated 2 nights in a row in quite some time, it seems weird to have service so far out,I enjoyed not having service for a bit, but its nice to be able to update.

I'm finding a lot about myself I like and parts of me I feel I haven't shown in awhile. The trail really does wonders for the heart, soul, and mind. It feels really good to be out here living a dream I've dreamed for a long long time, its so much more than anyone could ever prepare for, the things you learn,the places you go,the people you meet, and the things you see, all have had a huge impact on me. Pray that the weather clears tomorrow and hopefully the next time I update I will have completed the southern ridge of the Presidential Range and be moving that much closer to Maine.

-Fresh and Bella the Mountain Dog
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Wednesday, September 8, 2010

The White Mountains

The state of New Hampshire is the best part of the Appalachian trail. The White Mountains are some of the greatest terrain and most amazing,breath-taking scenery I have ever seen. Its been 4 days since I last updated, so much has happened since then but I'll do my best to recall it all for you. September 2ND we started into the Whites, our first alpine, above treeline climb was Mount Moosilauke 4,802' above sea level. At the southern base of Moosilauke, we ran into Dutch Tape and Cabana Boy, a couple I met back on my first day on trail, they were doing trail magic! sloppy joes, hot dogs, hiker boxes,soda,snacks, much needed before a serious summit. We started our ascent around 4:30, after we said all our goodbyes. The Climb up Moosilauke was a gradual climb for 4 solid miles. we summited Around 7:30 that evening, I was awestruck. It was getting really cold, so we pushed half way down the Northern slope where we stayed at Beaver Brook Shelter. The view from the shelter put sunrise right in your face, it was amazing. That day, we took a nero day in the town of Lincoln, NH. resupply, lunch, and we were off again. 8 short miles to Eliza Brook Shelter. The following day we did The Kinsmans, more killer views, and above treeline, alpine hiking,9 miles and hit the town of Lincoln again. (its accessible from 2 roads) where we stayed at Chet's Place before conquering Franconia Ridge. Chet's place was amazing, and Chet's story was the heaviest, inspiring story I've heard on the trail thus far. In 2002 while preparing for a thru-hike himself, Chet had a white gas camp stove blow up In his face nearly killing him. He spent 8 months in a coma, flat-lined 9 times, organs failed numerous times, and no health insurance to speak of. He had burns over 80% of his body and had all but fried his lungs, with internal burns. He was put in a Wheelchair and told he would never walk again, but that wasn't in Chet's plan. while staying at his house, i watched him walk about many times, and I know he'll get chance to get out here eventually. He feeds off thru-hiker energy, and we feed off his, its an amazing exchange.
While in Lincoln, I used the last of my subway card, it made a good run for me. We left Chet's on the 4Th, to begin our ascent of Franconia Ridge. it was a 7 mile climb to get above treeline, we summited Little Haystack in about 3 hours. Franconia Ridge, includes, Mt. Liberty, Little Haystack, Mt. Lincoln, Mt, Lafayette, and Mt. Garfield, all of which are over 4,000ft some above 5000 ft. We conquered the whole ridge that day, 14 huge miles in the Whites. We pushed to Gale Head hut and caught a work for stay. The AMC sent a crew to Europe in the early 1900s to study the Swiss Alpine hut system and bring it back to the States. The AMC maintains 8 alpine huts in the white Mountains, they are basically back country lodges with a dining/great room, kitchen, bunk rooms, bathroom, and the crew or "croo" quarters. A stay in one of the huts runs about 80 bucks a person per night, which includes 2 meals, but thru-hikers have the option of doing a work for stay, and in return get all left-overs and to sleep in the great room.The food at the huts rocks, its nice to have a home cooked dinner and breakfast, that isn't cooked over a coke can stove on a rock, but in an actual kitchen. Oh the pancakes! the croos have to pack in all the supplies they need for the season on pack boards, these guys are no joke! I could tell you a ton about the huts, but I'll let you do your own research. From Gale Head Hut, we pushed over The Twin Mountains, Mt Guyot, and the Zeacliffs, to do another work for stay at the Zealand Falls Hut. The croo at Zealand Falls treated us great!Easy work and plenty of great food. The Crews that run the huts are made up of 4 people all around my age (20 somethings) these guys have it made, I will be applying for a croo position next season without a doubt, getting paid to hike and live in the back country, SIGN ME UP!
We hiked 9 miles out of Zealand Falls, finishing at Crawford Notch. We are laying low at a trail angel's house to avoid crap weather. once we start our hike out of here we will be basically be starting our climb up Mount Washington! more mountain updates to come.

I've taken over 200 pictures just in the Whites alone. This is the part of the trail I've dreamed of. Huge mountains, views as far as you can see, alpine and boreal forests, and some amazing waterfalls. The Temps are definitely a factor here now, Summit temps in the 30s, winds 35-55 mph, and wind chills in the teens. I've got all my cold weather gear now, most of it brand spanking new! New gloves, hat, 2 long sleeve shirts, and a killer polartec Fleece. Bella keeps her jacket on most days now, she is totally owning the Whites. Bella The Mountain Dog is her trail name. she sets the pace for us, and finds the easiest routes, she's finally learned to move off trail to poop! She looks like one solid muscle, this is her test for Katahdin, so far shes passed with flying colors.

Dutch and I have continued hiking together, I think its been about 3 weeks or so. He is a really cool guy, we both hike at about the same pace, and seem to be on the same page as far as daily miles go. He finished paramedic school before starting the trail, which is what I'm doing when I finish the trail. I think he might ride the train home with me (I'll get off at Harpers Ferry) and there's talk he might watch Bella for me while I go thru the Smokies. The rest of the Merrell Crew is 3 days behind us, Birch is having to get off again, because of a death in the family, I'm sure he'll catch us by Maine though, keep his family in your prayers.
Under 350 miles til I'm heading South. All my NOBO friends will be heading home, and my journey will continue, this has been such an amazing experience so far, there's still so much more to come, thanks to everyone for their support,comments,mail drops, and everything else...

I know I had a lot more to say and type about the last few days, but so much has happened I just cant recall it all now. I love New Hampshire and I love the White Mountains.

Live Vicariously Through me.

-Fresh and Bella The Mountain Dog + Dutch

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

21 miles in great weather to the fire tower and cabin on top of Smart Mountain. Great 360 views from the fire tower and my first true sunset,tomorrow should prove for an amazing sunrise ... I fell asleep typing and my phone died. Sunrise wasn't as awe inspiring as sunset, but it was still awesome none the less. Out of camp by 8:15 this morning and pushed 15 miles to Oar Hill shelter. We had planned to do 21 to the base of Mnt Moosalocki, but it was in the 90s in New Hampshire today, so we took a long lunch and a swim at this really cool lake. Tomorrow we hit above tree line conditions and the fun really begins. I'm pretty certain I won't have service thru the Whites but I will update every chance I get. Hoping to stay in a few of the AMC huts in the whites, they are said to be amazing, and they all offer work for stay as do most of the shelters thru the Whites. I hear of all you can eat lasagna at one of the huts, fingers crossed. I'm out of snacks for the whites but I have plenty of breakfasts,lunches, and dinners, so hopefully I can make it last thru Gorham,NH.. Lots of movement in the forests around the shelter tonight, its hiker tv. Early to bed early to rise, tomorrow we conquer Moosalocki!

-fresh and Bella
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